the popular 19th century shawl ornamented with what came to be called a paisley pattern

Design using a droplet-shaped vegetable motif

Paisley or paisley blueprint is an ornamental cloth design using the boteh (Persian: بته) or buta, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Farsi origin, paisley designs became popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post–Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, particularly in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then replicated locally.^[i]

Although the pine cone or almond-like form is of Western farsi origin, and the fabric designs cramming many of them into a rich pattern are originally Indian, the English name for the patterns derives from the town of Paisley, in the w of Scotland, a heart for textiles where paisley designs were produced.^[2]

English paisley shirts, 1960s or afterward

In the mid- to late 1960s, paisley became identified with psychedelic style and enjoyed mainstream popularity, partly due to the Beatles.^[three] Consequently, the fashion was specially popular during the Summer of Love in 1967. The company Fender made a pink paisley version of their Telecaster guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the guitar bodies.^{[4] [5]}

Persian silk brocade with aureate and silver thread (golabetoon), woven in 1963.

The pattern is still commonly seen in Britain and other English language-speaking countries on men's ties, waistcoats, and scarfs, and remains popular in other items of habiliment and textiles in Iran and South and Primal Asian countries.

Origins [edit]

Shawl fragment, India, 20th century

Some design scholars^{[ who? ]} believe the buta is the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a cypress tree: a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity.^[half-dozen] The "bent" cedar is likewise a sign of force and resistance but modesty. The floral motif was originated in the Sassanid dynasty and afterward in the Safavid dynasty of Persia (1501–1736), and was a major material pattern in Islamic republic of iran during the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties. In these periods, the pattern was used to decorate royal regalia, crowns, and courtroom garments, as well every bit textiles used by the general population.^{[ citation needed ]} Persian and Central Asian designs usually range the motifs in orderly rows, with a plain background.

Ancient Indo-Iranian origins [edit]

There is significant speculation as to the origins and symbolism of Boteh Jehgeh, or "ancient motif", known in English as paisley.^[7] With experts contesting unlike fourth dimension periods for its emergence, to empathize the proliferation in the popularity of Boteh Jehgeh blueprint and eventually Paisley, information technology is important to understand Southward Asian history. The early Indo-Iranian people flourished in South Asia, where they somewhen exchanged linguistic, cultural, and even religious similarities.^[8] The ancient Indo-Iranian people shared a religion called Zoroastrianism.^[9] Zoroastrianism, some experts^{[ who? ]} argue, served as 1 of the earliest influences for Boteh Jegeh'south pattern with the shape representing the cypress tree, an ancient zoroastrian religious symbol.^[9] Others^{[ who? ]} contest that the earliest representation of the patterns shape comes from the Sassanid Dynasty, who lived in modern-twenty-four hour period Islamic republic of iran, dating to more than two,200 years BCE and remained in ability until the 3rd century CE.^[10] The blueprint was representative of a tear drop.^[ten] Some^{[ who? ]} will debate that Boteh Jehgeh'south origins stem from old religious beliefs and its pregnant could symbolize the sun, a phoenix, or even an aboriginal Iranian religious sign for an eagle.^[7] Effectually the same time, a pattern called Boteh was gaining popularity in Iran; the pattern was a floral pattern, and was used as a loftier class ornament, generally serving to decorate royal items that belonged to those of high condition.^[x] Information technology was said^{[ weasel words ]} to have been a pattern worn to represent elite social status, such as that of nobility. The pattern was traditionally woven onto silk clothing using silverish and gold material.^[10] The primeval testify of the design being traded with other cultures was found at the Red Body of water, where information technology is predicted that the earliest trades took place as far back as the 15th century, with both Egyptian and Greek peoples.^{[ citation needed ]}

Introduction of Boteh Jegeh to Western culture [edit]

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the British East Republic of india Visitor introduced Kashmir shawls from India to England and Scotland where they were extremely stylish and soon duplicated.^[eleven] The first place in the western world to imitate the design was the boondocks of Paisley in Scotland, Europe'southward summit producer of textiles at this time.^[12] Earlier existence produced in Paisley, thus gaining its name in western culture, the paisley pattern was originally referred to past westerners simply as merely pine and cone design.^[thirteen] Technological innovation in textile manufacturing around this time made it so that western imitations of Kashmir shawls became competitive with Indian made shawls from Kashmir.^[14]

With the industrial revolution taking identify in Europe, paisley shawls were manufactured at an industrial charge per unit, and while the shawls from India could be quite expensive at the time, manufacturing plant manufactured shawls fabricated information technology so that the fashion became commonplace among middle-class people, thus boosting the design'southward popularity even more.^[13] While the western world appropriated much of eastern civilisation and design, the Boteh design was past far the most pop.^[14] Records point that William Moorcroft, an English businessman and explorer, visited the Himalayan mountains in the mid 19th century; upon his arrival, he was enthralled by Boteh designed Kashmir shawls and tried to accommodate for entire families of Indian textile workers to movement their lives to the United Kingdom.^[15] The primeval paisley shawls made in the United kingdom, in Paisley, Scotland, were made out of fleece, a textile that is put together in such a way that one side tin be described as containing a soft, fluffy texture.

In Asia the paisley shawls were primarily worn by males often in formal or ceremonial contexts, but in Europe the shawls were primarily worn by women instead of men. While however holding an accurate resemblance to its original influence, the paisley design would begin to modify in one case it began to be produced in western culture, with dissimilar towns in the United Kingdom applying their own spin to the blueprint.^[sixteen] The peak period of paisley as a fashionable design concluded in the 1870s,^[17] perhaps as so many inexpensive versions were on the market.

The 1960s proved to be a massive time of revival for the paisley design in western culture. Popular culture in the U.s. developed a sort of fixation on eastern cultures in which many traditionally Indian styles became popularized. Paisley served as one of the styles to be revived, being worn by the likes of the Beatles, even the guitar visitor Fender used the design to decorate one of their virtually famous guitars, the Fender Telecaster. Today, the design remains mutual actualization on jewellery, suit ties, pocket books, cake decorations, tattoos, mouse pads for computers, scarves, and dresses. The blueprint also influences article of furniture pattern internationally, with many countries using the paisley design for things such every bit wallpaper, pillows, curtains, and bed spreads.^[13]

Local manufacturers in Marseille began to mass-produce the patterns via early textile press processes in 1640. England, circa 1670, and Kingdom of the netherlands, in 1678, soon followed. This in turn provided Europe'south weavers with more competition than they could bear, and the production and import of printed paisley was forbidden in France by royal decree from 1686 to 1759. Nevertheless, enforcement near the cease of that catamenia was lax, and France had its ain printed textile manufacturing manufacture in place as early at 1746 in some locales. Paisley was non the only design produced by French fabric printers; the need for paisley which created the industry there also fabricated possible production of native patterns such as toile de Jouy.^[18]

In the 19th century, European production of paisley increased, specially in the Scottish boondocks from which the pattern takes its mod name. Soldiers returning from the colonies brought dwelling cashmere wool shawls from Bharat, and the East India Company imported more. The pattern was copied from the plush silk and wool Kashmir shawls and adapted first for use on handlooms, and, after 1820,^[19] on Jacquard looms.

From roughly 1800 to 1850, the weavers of the boondocks of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, became the foremost producers of Paisley shawls. Unique additions to their mitt-looms and Jacquard looms allowed them to work in five colours when most weavers were producing paisley using simply 2.^[19] The blueprint became known as the Paisley pattern. Past 1860, Paisley could produce shawls with 15 colours, which was nevertheless only a quarter of the colors in the multicolour paisleys then still being imported from Kashmir.^[19] In improver to the loom-woven fabric, the town of Paisley became a major site for the manufacture of printed cotton and wool in the 19th century, according to the Paisley Museum and Art Galleries.^[20] The paisley pattern was beingness printed, rather than woven, onto other textiles, including cotton squares which were the precursors of the mod bandanna. Printed paisley was cheaper than the costly woven paisley and this added to its popularity. The key places of printing paisley were United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland and the Alsace region of France.^[21]

At the 2010 Wintertime Olympics, Azerbaijan'due south team sported colorful paisley trousers.^[22] It was the emblem of the 2012 FIFA U-17 Women's World Cup, held in Azerbaijan.

Islamic control in South Asia and spread of the pattern [edit]

In Western farsi linguistic communication, Boteh can exist translated to shrub or bush-league, while in Kashmir (India) it carried the aforementioned meaning but was referred to as Buta, or Bu.^[13] One of the earliest testify of the pattern as it relates to Islamic civilisation has been plant at Noh Gumba mosque, in the city of Blakh in Afghanistan, where it is predicted that the pattern was included in the design as early as the 800s when the mosque was congenital. In early Iranian culture, the design was woven onto Termeh, one of the most valuable materials in early Iran where the blueprint served to brand clothing for the dignity. At this time, the Iranian dignity wore distinct uniforms called Khalaat, historically, the design was usually found on the Khalaat uniforms.^[sixteen] It is stated that at some point in the 15th century, Boteh was transported from Persia to Kashmir.^[13] In the aforementioned century, in the 1400s, some of the primeval recorded Kashmir shawls were produced in India, records from the 1500s, during Emperor Akbar's reign over the Mughal people in this expanse indicate that shawl making was already stylish in India prior to Mughal conquest which took identify in the early 1400s.^[15] It has been stated that during Emperor Akbars reign over the Mughal empire, Boteh Jehgeh shawls were extremely popular and fashionable. While i shawl was traditionally worn previously, it was during the rule of Emperor Akbar that the emperor decided to wear two shawls at a time to serve every bit a condition symbol. Along with wearing the shawls frequently, Emperor Akbar also used the shawls as gifts to other rulers and high officials.^[15] It is believed that past the 18th century, Kashmir shawls were produced in the image that someone today would acquaintance with mod paisley.^[13]

Paisley bandanas [edit]

A cherry bandana with a paisley design

While today some people associate bandanas with cowboys or Cholo culture, paisley bandanas were popular during the late 1700s and their popularity in the U.s. coincides with the American revolution. George Washington allegedly wore a paisley bandana equally a scarf, the popular way of wearing bandanas at that time.^{[ commendation needed ]} In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, paisley bandanas began to appear with political and military advertisements printed on them.^{[ citation needed ]} Such printed bandanas were prevalent during the early on and mid- 20th century when World War I and World State of war II were being fought. Information technology was thought that by purchasing and sporting a pro-war paisley bandana the heir-apparent was helping to support their state in winning the war.^{[ citation needed ]} The paisley bandana started to feature in Western movies and thus became a symbol of the American West.^{[ citation needed ]}

Through the 1970s, paisley bandanas were worn by many bluish collar and labor workers to keep dust out of their mouths and noses. The bandana's symbolism in one case again shifted in American minds, being associated with hard work.^{[ citation needed ]} Famous country vocalist Willie Nelson began wearing bandanas when he moved from Nashville dorsum to Austin, Texas "merely in fourth dimension to take hold of the hippie wave cresting at counterculture center the Armadillo Earth Headquarters."^[23] Around the same time, bandanas likewise became popular with motorcyclists, particularly with Harley Davidson riders and bikers."^{[ commendation needed ]} In the 1970s paisley bandanas as well became popular among gangs in California, near notably with 2 well-known rival gangs, the Bloods who would wear cherry-red bandanas and the Crips who would wear bluish bandanas.^[24]

Modern men'southward tie, earlier 1996

Prince paid tribute to the rock and coil history of paisley when he created the Paisley Park Records recording label and established Paisley Park Studios, both named after his 1985 song "Paisley Park". The Paisley Underground was a music scene active around the same time.

Paisley was a favorite design element of British-Indian builder Laurie Baker. He has made numerous drawings and collages of what he called "mango designs".^[25] He used to include the shape in the buildings he designed likewise.^[26]

In other languages [edit]

The mod French words for paisley are boteh , cachemire ("cashmere"; not capitalized, which would mean "Kashmir, the region") and palme ("palm", which – along with the pino and the cypress – is 1 of the traditional botanical motifs thought to take influenced the shape of the paisley element equally it is at present known).^{[vi] [27] [ failed verification ]}

In various languages of India and Pakistan, the pattern's name is related to the word for mango:^[28]

• In Bengali: kalka ^[29]
• In Telugu: mamidi pinde', young mango pattern
• In Tamil: mankolam, mango blueprint
• In Marathi: koyari, mango seed
• In Hindi/Urdu: carrey or kerii, ways unripe mango^[xxx]
• In Punjabi: ambi, from amb, mango.^{[ citation needed ]}

In Chinese, information technology is known as the "ham hock pattern" (Chinese: 火腿纹; pinyin: huǒtuǐwén ).^{[ citation needed ]} In Russian federation, this ornament is known as "cucumbers" ( огурцы ).^{[31] [32]}

Boteh is a Western farsi word meaning bush, cluster of leaves or a flower bud.^[33]

References [edit]

Citations [edit]

1. ^ Dusenbury and Bier, 48–50
2. ^ Oxford English Lexicon, Oxford .
3. ^ "Paisley: The story of a archetype bohemian print". Archived from the original on 2018-05-27. Retrieved 2018-05-31 .
4. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2018-06-12. Retrieved 2018-06-10 . {{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as championship (link)
5. ^ "1968 Fender Paisley Telecaster and Telecaster Bass". xiv June 2011. Archived from the original on 2019-10-27. Retrieved 2018-06-ten .
6. ^ ^{a b} Indian Hand Woven Jacquard Jamavar Shawls, Zanzibar Trading, archived from the original on 2012-01-eighteen, retrieved 2012-02-07 .
7. ^ ^{a b} "SID.ir | A GLANCE AT THE Figure OF BOTEH JEGHEH (Ancient MOTIF)". www.sid.ir. Archived from the original on 2020-09-10. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
8. ^ Dani, Ahmad Hasan; Masson, Vadim Mikhaĭlovich (1999). History of Civilizations of Fundamental Asia. Motilal Banarsidass Publ. ISBN978-81-208-1407-3. Archived from the original on 2020-09-x. Retrieved 2019-12-24 .
9. ^ ^{a b} Ringer, Monica (2011-12-13). Pious Citizens: Reforming Zoroastrianism in India and Iran. Syracuse University Press. ISBN978-0-8156-5060-7. Archived from the original on 2020-09-10. Retrieved 2019-12-24 .
10. ^ ^{a b c d} McGuire, Brian (2013-01-24). "Roots of the Paisley Pattern". Paisley Scotland. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-04 .
11. ^ Baker, Lindsay. "Paisley: The story of a classic bohemian print". www.bbc.com. Archived from the original on 2019-12-03. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
12. ^ "What is paisley? | Macmillan Dictionary Blog". 3 May 2018. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
13. ^ ^{a b c d e f} "Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey - Laureate Legal Terms and...Paisley A motif- * Intensively used in ... palm tree leaf Pearl Academy, ... In Kashmir the name used to depict this motif is buta or buti". pdfslide.cyberspace. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-05 .
14. ^ ^{a b} Maskiell, Michelle (2002). "Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000". Journal of World History. xiii: 27–65. doi:10.1353/jwh.2002.0019. S2CID 144868279.
15. ^ ^{a b c} Karpinski, Caroline (November 1963). "Kashmir to Paisley". The Metropolitan Museum of Fine art Bulletin. 22 (iii): 116–123. doi:x.2307/3258212. JSTOR 3258212.
16. ^ ^{a b} Novin, Guity. "A History of Graphic Design: Chapter 92 - A history of Paisley or Boteh Jegheh Design". A History of Graphic Design. Archived from the original on 2020-02-27. Retrieved 2019-12-19 .
17. ^ Welters, Linda; Beasley, Elizabeth; Dee-Collins, Nicole; Gilcrease, Sallie; Lukens, Catherine (2017-01-01). "Second Chances for Paisley Shawls". International Textile and Dress Association (ITAA) Almanac Briefing Proceedings. Archived from the original on 2019-12-05. Retrieved 2019-12-19 .
18. ^ "The Prohibition Years, 1686–1759", Le Musée de fifty'Impression sur Etoffes [The Museum of Printed Textiles], archived from the original on Feb 21, 2008, retrieved February 3, 2008 .
19. ^ ^{a b c} Andrews, Meg, Across the Fringe: Shawls of Paisley Design, Victoriana, archived from the original on February 16, 2008, retrieved February three, 2008 . Heavily illustrated history of paisley fashions.
20. ^ "Paisley Museum and Fine art Gallery", About United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland, archived from the original on 2008-03-05, retrieved 2008-02-03 .
21. ^ "Printed 'Paisley' in the 19th Century", Le Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes [The Museum of Printed Textiles], archived from the original on March v, 2015, retrieved February 3, 2008 .
22. ^ "Vancouver 2010: The Olympics of the Silly Pants", Tonic, archived from the original on 2010-02-23, retrieved 2010-05-21 .
23. ^ "Nine-Things-You-Didnt-Know-Well-nigh-Willie-Nelson". Retrieved 2021-01-19 . {{cite spider web}}: CS1 maint: url-condition (link)
24. ^ "Ethnic Apparel in the Us: A Cultural Encyclopedia2016 010 Edited by Annette Lynch and Mitchell D.Strauss Indigenous Dress in the United states of america: A Cultural Encyclopedia Lanham, Dr. Rowman & Littlefield 2015 x + 326 pp. 9780759121485(impress) 9780759121508(e-volume) £49.95 $75". Reference Reviews. thirty (ane): 17. 2016-01-18. doi:10.1108/rr-09-2015-0225. ISSN 0950-4125.
25. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2008-10-02. Retrieved 2016-01-09 . {{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
26. ^ "The mango house". 2008-07-24. Archived from the original on 2016-02-07. Retrieved 2016-01-09 .
27. ^ Sharon B (Aug 29, 2006), A prune or a pickle: the process of working up a pocket-size design, Wordpress, archived from the original on January 19, 2015, retrieved February 3, 2008 .
28. ^ "Paisley Pattern : The ever favourite Textile Pattern revisited – Sew Guide". Stitch Guide. Archived from the original on 2018-02-02. Retrieved 2018-02-01 .
29. ^ Zaman Niaz (1993). The Fine art of KANTHA Embroidery (Second Revised ed.). Dhaka, Bangladesh: The University Printing Limited. p. 82. ISBN978-984-05-1228-7.
30. ^ "Urdu and Panjabi: Kerii". Archived from the original on 2015-06-24. Retrieved 2015-06-24 .
31. ^ "Журнал любопытных вещей | Paisley — благородный орнамент, "слеза Аллаха", турецкий боб или просто "огурец"". Archived from the original on 2017-01-05. Retrieved 2017-01-05 .
32. ^ "The All-time Guide | Узор Paisley". Archived from the original on 2017-01-05. Retrieved 2017-01-05 .
33. ^ "Boteh (Botteh, Paisley). Aryan Silk & Trade". www.heritageinstitute.com. Archived from the original on 2019-05-24. Retrieved 2019-06-04 .

Sources [edit]

• Dusenbury, Mary M. and Bier, Carol, Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art, 2004, Hudson Hills, ISBN 1555952380, 9781555952389, p. 48
• F. Petri, Origin of the Volume of the Expressionless Angient Egipt. 1926. June part ii с 41–45
• С. Ашурбейли «Новые изыскания по истории Баку и Девичьей башни» Альманах искусств 1972 г, С.Ашурбейли «О датировке и назначении Гыз галасы в крепости» Элм. 1974 г.

Further reading [edit]

• Irwin, John (1973), The Kashmir Shawl, Victoria and Albert Museum, ISBN978-0-xi-290164-8 .
• Levi-Strauss, Monique (1987), The French Shawls, Damsel, ISBN978-0-85219-759-two .
• Reilly, Valerie (1987), The Paisley Design: The Official Illustrated History, Glasgow: Richard Drew, ISBN978-0-87905-317-viii .

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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paisley_(design)

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